tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58577672514997229872024-03-05T22:58:25.436+00:00Researching South SudanZoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.comBlogger33125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-46250088345088700602013-09-04T21:53:00.002+01:002013-09-05T09:03:45.644+01:00Still writing up...balancing the 'dust of details'<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 15px; text-align: -webkit-auto;">"Travellers’ tales are supposed to be tall tales; but I have always found them fall short. I have nearly always felt that the real monument or landscape, when I saw it for myself, was something stranger and more striking than the indirect impression of reading. The old tale against travellers’ tales was that they magnified everything; that every lizard became a dragon and every savage tribe a race of giants. But my experience is that travellers in a strange land, especially if they have travelled in it long, tend too much to forget its strangeness. They become concerned with a dust of details, and tend to take the green lizards as casually as the green leaves. The danger is rather, I think, that a man can live in a tribe of gigantic savages, and grow to remark and record all sorts of details about their tribal taxes or their coinage of tusks or hides, and, at the end of his detailed narrative, forget even to mention that they were giants. For as there are things too big and obvious to be noticed, so especially there are things too big and obvious to be remembered."</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 15px; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">On Travels Surprises</span></span></span><br />
<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">from All is Grist by G.K Chesterton</span></span></span><br />
<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">A book of essays published in 1931</span></span></span><br />
<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">This passage is written out by hand in the first page of Godfrey Lienhardt's* field diary from 1947. I looked at this a few times in Warrap and smiled. I thought how pleased Lienhardt must have been to find this, and how apt he must have thought it. He wanted to start his research with a reminder of it. Shame about the use of the word 'savages', other than that I like it a lot. And it makes a valuable point about scale in research and writing...a difficult balance to strike.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;">*Author of 'Divinity and Experience: The Religion of the Dinka' a classic in anthropology of religion published in the 1960s</span></span></span></div>
Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-67506308612017274462013-05-29T17:33:00.001+01:002013-05-29T17:33:25.767+01:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I am in all favour of challenging and transcending conventional periodisation, but I think this is going too far...<br />
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Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com37tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-8341908107653071812012-04-17T09:09:00.002+01:002012-04-17T09:09:51.652+01:00brief update from Kuajok<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Heading to Lietnhom tomorrow to do some work at seed fairs and hopefully learn a bit about agricultural trade in Warrap.<br />
<br />
There is considerable uncertainly in Kuajok at the moment, amidst calls for <a href="http://www.sudantribune.com/Warrap-governor-declares-public,42277">mobilisation</a> and <a href="http://www.sudantribune.com/S-Sudanese-activists-in-massive,42286">youth protest</a>s against the UN statement asking South Sudan to withdraw from Heglig. I can feel the battle lines hardening almost daily.<br />
<br />
Kuajok is on the road to Abyei and the nightly movements of SPLA troops and supplies are getting louder, as the soldiers play music and blast the megaphone through the town at 3am (soldiers move at night, I have discovered).<br />
<br />
Things are mostly business as usual, but the price of fuel has shot up (more than doubled) over 24 hours and once it starts going up...it tends to have its own momentum. Currently at 35ssp per just over a litre. Price of commodities will follow. Price of dollars on the black market already increasing too.<br />
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Probably out of internet and phone reception for the next week or so...<br />
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<br /></div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-78610145528743736822012-04-14T09:31:00.002+01:002012-04-14T10:32:06.405+01:00Kuajok on Heglig<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I was going to write a post about hippos.
But then the SPLA took Heglig and we seem to be teetering on the verge of <a href="http://www.sudantribune.com/Heavy-fighting-erupts-in-Kersana,42243">war</a>
with the Republic of Sudan. I don’t think that war is inevitably round the
corner, I am cautiously optimistic that a resolution to Heglig will be found. But I was finding it hard to concentrate on hippos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">What are people in Kuajok saying about the
spirally political situation? These are the positions that I am hearing a lot<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">This is a about asserting national
sovereignty and Khartoum recognizing that South Sudan is an independent nation
and Heglig is a part of South Sudan. Although the Abyei Boundaries Commission
at the Hague Permanent Court of Arbitration ruled that Heglig was in the North
– the recommendations of the Commission were never implemented. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Related to this point, any war that might
happen is both old and new. Its old because Khartoum is an old enemy, and the
current escalations are really a continuation of tensions that have been
unresolved since the CPA. However, it is also new because what is at stake is
defense of the nation. The current rhetoric about Heglig is deeply imbedded in growing
national identities in South Sudan<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">People are very angry with the UN and the
“International Community” for calling on the President to withdraw troops from
Heglig. They see it as a double standard. Why was the Sudan Army (SAF) not
asked to pull out of Abyei?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">There is a lot of talk about
‘mobilisation’. Warrap is one of the 5 border states who have been asked by
President Kiir to 'mobilise'. Its not clear what the exact terms of this
mobilisation are (but take an educated guess). While people say they are 'ready', people
are also incredibly scared and do not want to go back to war. Even some of the young
men I am friends with, who find it quite
hard to admit they are scared of things in general, have admitted they are
incredibly worried about what is going happen.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
Tonight there will be a rally at the SPLM office to inform people about what is happening and what the SPLM position is.</div>
</div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-68987882764801320902012-04-09T10:12:00.000+01:002012-04-09T10:12:14.058+01:00Rap[Jang]<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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This blog entry marks my general
appreciation for rap (sourgum). It’s a staple food here and grown on every
homestead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s delicious. Its used to
make kuin (i.e. ugali/posho). But its much stickier and more flavoursome that
the kind made with white refined maize flour that is imported from Uganda. Very
rare to find rap in bigger towns, where imported maize is heavily relied on
(because its widely available and doesn’t require lengthy preparation.) Rap is
village food.</div>
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<span lang="EN-US">I took a few photos last weekend of rap
being prepared. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">After the harvest in September/October time the rap is stored on a elevated platform, called kat (kat rap to be precise). See left. When flour is to be prepared it is taken down and moved to the smooth mud platform in the centre of the homestead (baai cielic)</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Jea8-TJB_PZo7Yt1B-AHY-BpC5v905pBgZE-4mL_XhIrn63YQt0RwjS5d2STVyTJAYZucY9ShJzDtgEfMcw7YF7BeqOQGnJhrY9YMS-wMb5qYjn3PWPjyPoCCt1sAIIVwWBGJnNiPCMa/s1600/DSC02089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Jea8-TJB_PZo7Yt1B-AHY-BpC5v905pBgZE-4mL_XhIrn63YQt0RwjS5d2STVyTJAYZucY9ShJzDtgEfMcw7YF7BeqOQGnJhrY9YMS-wMb5qYjn3PWPjyPoCCt1sAIIVwWBGJnNiPCMa/s320/DSC02089.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Once you have a big pile of it, thrash the
hell out of it (k</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-hansi-font-family: Cambria;">ö</span><span lang="EN-US">m) with a stick so that
the grain comes off the stalk. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEkpUHWuFTq-mTtrmiG9U2O50i38qY0c5Z7935YUYrOrhGfsyq8CtnCKDTIddmiOTrC6Mvb22F2lqGpW1IwTBBT5_GI380N_WjZAkS69q1afG9Z8jSQ2r2zcUEzvKskzGRoZY8ypRlmqY_/s1600/DSC02060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEkpUHWuFTq-mTtrmiG9U2O50i38qY0c5Z7935YUYrOrhGfsyq8CtnCKDTIddmiOTrC6Mvb22F2lqGpW1IwTBBT5_GI380N_WjZAkS69q1afG9Z8jSQ2r2zcUEzvKskzGRoZY8ypRlmqY_/s320/DSC02060.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">All the stalks are removed and the grains
and the husks (ayiel rap) collected and then winnowed (wiiu rap).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUf30W_dSQyCC8-Cf3ABYL2E7NFgD71I6H-TpVAWONjc997Nd3WGiDvez9o0B6n_AiK-qq-rYtwZC9jo7oDGV4-s0VB1IW5mQVGDyJJONVoS47tiDG3ONXIpWe9qCbqc67LzVNlCXL50u5/s1600/DSC02035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUf30W_dSQyCC8-Cf3ABYL2E7NFgD71I6H-TpVAWONjc997Nd3WGiDvez9o0B6n_AiK-qq-rYtwZC9jo7oDGV4-s0VB1IW5mQVGDyJJONVoS47tiDG3ONXIpWe9qCbqc67LzVNlCXL50u5/s320/DSC02035.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Then you are ready to pound it (ɣol) to
make flour. [note: this is disastrous and totally incorrect technique!] <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtLl4vcvhDk0b8qOBizuKzILQRE4HVYOHFNThAjod_36Lnrg9iZ_FI0M3zFIivJgvKXSwRZ5Z8zwdmGWUeglVFlXfDOaJ6p_h_oZyfqoL4Fh3W0fFfrvxWW8g0UhRdo49MW5__RYvqHlIw/s1600/DSC01649.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtLl4vcvhDk0b8qOBizuKzILQRE4HVYOHFNThAjod_36Lnrg9iZ_FI0M3zFIivJgvKXSwRZ5Z8zwdmGWUeglVFlXfDOaJ6p_h_oZyfqoL4Fh3W0fFfrvxWW8g0UhRdo49MW5__RYvqHlIw/s320/DSC01649.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Enjoy with a variety of soupy sauces.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Just returned from an Easter weekend in Wunrok (Twic County) which I'll be writing about soon.</div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<!--EndFragment--></div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-51359959595667663852012-04-06T09:31:00.002+01:002012-04-06T09:31:36.023+01:00Ajiep and the ruins of humanitarianism<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span lang="EN-US">Across the river from Kuajok there is a
place called Ajiep. During the war people from the Kuajok area and beyond fled
here in search of safety. But the allegedly mismanaged relief operations and
massive logistical problems made the scale of suffering and death toll at Ajiep
startling. In my mind Ajiep is synonymous with how bad things can get and how
badly wrong humanitarian assistance can go. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">At the end of the 1990s, this part of Bahr
el Ghazal was in the grip of a terrible famine, political fall outs within the
SPLA High Command provoked rebellions, raids and pillage by one of its founder
members, Kerubino Kuanyin Bol across (and beyond) greater Gogrial. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ajiep became a kind of relief magnate, a
supposed safe haven, drawing people from as far away as Rumbek and Northern
Bahr el Ghazal. Except that it wasn’t safe and it was far from a haven. The area
was still being raided by Kerubino Kuanyin’s forces and the few agencies
working there (notably MSF-Belgium) were inadequately supplied or prepared to
deal with the influx people. This meant enormous problems in food aid
distribution. Put simply, there was not enough food and too many starving
people. Some of the worst emergency mortality rates ever recorded come from
Ajiep<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">A lot of people that I have met and spoken
to in Kuajok went to Ajiep during the late 1990s period of Kerubino attacks and
famine. They told me that I would not find anything still there, that everyone
left Ajiep and it had returned to normal, just another village.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I arrived there are that seemed to be true.
Today Ajiep is still a village, rather a nice village as it happens. A lots of
green grass between the scattered homesteads despite it being the middle of dry
season. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">On Friday I had to pass through Ajiep on
the way to Gogrial East and I was curious. Was there any material evidence of
the aid operations? Had they left anything behind – a building? A clinic? Was
anything still there? Was anything still being used?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We drove up to the market in the centre of
the village and asked a few people who were hanging around. We were directed to
an empty field (unfortunately I couldn’t understand what was supposed to have
been there) and a small building<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I have shown these photos to a few people
since returning to Kuajok and they think this is an MSF office or clinic. The
bomb shelter is a give away that this was built during war. It doesn’t appear
to have been used at all since, the structure is still solid and intact, but it
has been abandoned, forgotten on the path to somewhere else.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--EndFragment--></div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-57692999861109738382012-03-26T08:18:00.000+01:002012-03-26T08:38:01.203+01:00Disappearing Heritage of Sudan, 1820-1956<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
There is a really great looking exhibition opening in London next month. Photographer and filmmaker, Frederique Cifuentes spent 6 years in Sudan documenting ruins and remnants of the colonial period(s), "this photographic and video project is an exploration of the mechanics of empire through its official buildings, private residencies, cinema houses, railways, irrigation canals and bridges."<br />
<br />
Its more than that too, because Cifuentes doesn't just look at the remaining material culture of empire, she goes further and explores the way that these buildings (and ruins) have been used and re-appropriated in the post-colonial period. What has actually happened to these structures since their originals owners left? Who took over and why? What does this tell us about the different ways people relate with the built environment and the past? What does this tell us about ideas about heritage in Sudan?<br />
<br />
The exhibition also uses photographic material from Durham University's Sudan Archive. This archive has tens of thousands of photos and its a comparatively unexploited resource. So this is also a great opportunity to see some of the archival material. The exhibition will go to Durham, and then Khartoum (next year).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNwwvpAw0AThR9Nt49itG6qb6KXUTiv9pyJera_cadpvCFQQyz6XVP1wSs1-8dSosL7V_H6zu5jlpISTo6gzbxpn4SJilb3bY47xdqUIeqjK0xWSdoPlbEmmK4JbQ9-Zm9hCeEuR2p9yv/s1600/Poster+Frederique.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJNwwvpAw0AThR9Nt49itG6qb6KXUTiv9pyJera_cadpvCFQQyz6XVP1wSs1-8dSosL7V_H6zu5jlpISTo6gzbxpn4SJilb3bY47xdqUIeqjK0xWSdoPlbEmmK4JbQ9-Zm9hCeEuR2p9yv/s640/Poster+Frederique.jpg" width="451" /></a></div>
<br /></div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-739775225238570882012-03-23T14:54:00.002+00:002012-03-23T14:54:31.684+00:00New look blog<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Well...slightly.<br />
<br />
I have updated my title picture.<br />
<br />
The old one was cobbled together from pictures I took on my old camera during my masters research and past trips to South Sudan.<br />
<br />
The new picture is taken with my beloved compact digital SLR (a Christmas present from my father last year). It's a view of the deepest part of the river in Kuac South Payam (near Kuajok). The posts (ŋuek) are where cattle have been sacrificed. This part of the river is associated with a lot of spiritual activity. It's alway deep, even in in the dry season, and can be dangerous. Every few years there is a big celebration here.<br />
<br />
I am in Wau <strike>for a monthly retox</strike> to write up and think about the last month's work</div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-35222075570159650862012-03-19T07:24:00.001+00:002012-03-19T08:06:38.626+00:00Dry season rivers<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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This is the River Jur south of Kuajok. I took this photograph last week, this is the fullest part of the river I have seen since I got back to Warrap at the beginning of February. I'm not trying to be sensational, it is normal at this time of year for the river to dry up. Although, in my conversations with people living near the river, I am consistently being told that there is less water and less fish at this time of year than there was in the past. Actually, it's usually the first thing I am told when I ask about the area. I am wondering how to incorporate these notions of climate change (or at least, environmental fluctuation) in to my research. Has there really been as much change as people say? How much are people romanticising the past as a time of plenty?</div>
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This is picture is a bit further down the same river, where there is much less water</div>
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<br />
These two men are fishing with a net, in this photo they are drawing the net in. They caught 4 small fish.<br />
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At this time of year, the vast majority of cattle are taken to the toch (dry season grazing) in Gogrial East and the border with Unity State. However, some are kept in the villages and these cattle had been driven down to the nearly dry river bed for a drink.<br />
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<br /></div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-15378364187342521572012-03-16T08:33:00.000+00:002012-03-16T08:33:21.103+00:00The unbearable dryness of being<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Recently I have had the feeling that
everything I own here is rapidly being destroyed due to a combination of the
elements and my ignorance about how to deal with them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">It is the dry season, the land is
parched and there is a lot of dust being blown about by the wind.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Casualties so far;<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>my jeans were eaten by a goat in the village,
my brogues and my trainers have holes in the side from riding my motorbike (who
knew brogues were not sensible shoes for riding a motorbike?), one skirt
severely ripped from very small fall from afore mentioned motorbike, phone
batteries all run down and only Chinese counterfeits available in the market,
USB port on solar charger mysteriously stopped working (assumed dust damage),
dust in everything.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Today, I also discovered a serious termite
problem in my hut. They have been physically removed as much as possible and
Doom sprayed into the holes in the wall but I’m not convinced this is a long
term solution. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCkCn_rEElqjXMp9PDIN3OSDn70YdnHtTg8ZPOWh-jCpAx7oc0Stu4thnvepwH72mBVPcYxc41Ow28vZzyVgi34nJz23TtY5EepueHW_Ut53q05XVqUCEsB4ROJF5U9e7OcRmNd1I4Rp34/s1600/DSC01962.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCkCn_rEElqjXMp9PDIN3OSDn70YdnHtTg8ZPOWh-jCpAx7oc0Stu4thnvepwH72mBVPcYxc41Ow28vZzyVgi34nJz23TtY5EepueHW_Ut53q05XVqUCEsB4ROJF5U9e7OcRmNd1I4Rp34/s320/DSC01962.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Going to buy a large plastic tub to put my
things in to prevent further dust damage.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Today is very dusty in Kuajok<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXNTu6AVyV46_x8NMG8zZ2xX08BP4prpbTD7wskql3FCy1Vio5I2SdqmNQaTTM2tYwgkPrbXHfSTeHu2hlg-xP9A8Jp6SdG3hdF9vMynmLfhCVqDlwdgSDwxxj6kgAfjr7CyW_wu5AR_iF/s1600/DSC01963.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXNTu6AVyV46_x8NMG8zZ2xX08BP4prpbTD7wskql3FCy1Vio5I2SdqmNQaTTM2tYwgkPrbXHfSTeHu2hlg-xP9A8Jp6SdG3hdF9vMynmLfhCVqDlwdgSDwxxj6kgAfjr7CyW_wu5AR_iF/s320/DSC01963.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVe_AGn7rXHDPB35BLIi5jps5BLxjRVlB39XhdGvxR2Au2cMDSpFH-Qo2b_kmQ0LwKOzNw0IBXRGEvspUzo-9EyR59y-cedEhNkdiTX1vHVLVJMzUx9wZTuzRnVDc-JGuyjEKX8hgqyBcg/s1600/DSC01964.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVe_AGn7rXHDPB35BLIi5jps5BLxjRVlB39XhdGvxR2Au2cMDSpFH-Qo2b_kmQ0LwKOzNw0IBXRGEvspUzo-9EyR59y-cedEhNkdiTX1vHVLVJMzUx9wZTuzRnVDc-JGuyjEKX8hgqyBcg/s320/DSC01964.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I’ve been doing some interviews near the
river, which is dry too…will try and post some photos soon<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-10732546164148892012012-03-12T08:54:00.003+00:002012-03-12T09:19:31.177+00:00Five things I knew, but didn’t fully appreciated before doing fieldwork<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">1.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span lang="EN-US">How hard women’s work can be<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">Backbreaking, seriously.
Try mixing an enormous pot of thick porridge for 15-20 people’s evening meal
and you will get my drift…Women get up first and go to bed last and work all
day. It can be quite fun and you can have a laugh while you are doing it, but
its incredibly difficult.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">2.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span lang="EN-US">How precious water is when it
doesn’t just come out of a tap<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast">
<span lang="EN-US">Water is key to life, it is
also very heavy and difficult to transport, when you are getting it from the
borehole someone has to go and do that, several times a day. If there is no
water – you will go thirsty, or hungry because you can’t cook without water. If
you are not properly prepared you will wake up in the middle of the night
thirsty and not be able to find water, which is not fun (I have been known the
fumble around in the dark searching, in desparation, for liquid and resorting to drinking a
mouthful of water from a jug someone left out in the kitchen, which I probably
shared with a goat. It’s a wonder I am not sick more often)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">3.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span lang="EN-US">How notions of privacy and
personal space differ cross-culturally<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast">
<span lang="EN-US">This is an obvious one. I
said goodbye to my English notions of personal space sometime ago. Which is not
such a bad thing in some ways, there is often too much privacy and too
much lonliness in England. Recently I have been somewhere I was always with
people in the day, sleeping outside with people at night and even small
children came and watched me bathe! So the only moments of alone time I had
were with a...erm..bush. Getting used to constant supervision, as well working and writing while on display and subject to enquiry I have
found difficult. I have started writing my field diary with a torch under my sheet!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">4.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span lang="EN-US">The value of an electric kettle<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast">
<span lang="EN-US">Related to point 1 and 2.
When there is no electricity water needs to be boiled on the fire, which
someone has to make, so you can’t have tea or coffee quickly. Importance of quick tea cannot be underestimated.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US">5.<span style="font: normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';">
</span></span><span lang="EN-US">The political economy of
health.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast">
<span lang="EN-US">The causes of sickness and
ill health are not ‘natural’. All health complaints in Kuajok are diagnosed as
malaria, typhoid or brucellosis. Proper testing facilities and expertise are
not here (or at least not available to the majority of the population,
including me). So if you get sick, you will not get proper treatment (assuming
that you can afford treatment anyway). Kuajok is relatively large town. Whenever I
travel in public transport more rural areas I ask people around me what they
are travelling for, number 1 reason for coming to a big town is to seek medical
treatment. I also see people with the most debilitating and painful conditions
who cannot get treated. It’s all rather…sickening<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-13460437647966592632012-03-10T08:11:00.000+00:002012-03-12T07:37:06.639+00:00Gogrial Akuol Akuith<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">This week I have been attending the 3<sup>rd</sup>
annual meeting of the Aguok community in Gogrial town. Aguok are the largest
territorial section of Dinka in the greater Gogrial area. What that means, basically is this: the Dinka
are a large ethnic group, and they divide themselves up according to
geographical distribution. So, in Gogrial East and West Counties everyone is
Dinka Rek, Dinka Rek is then further geographically divided – Aguok is one of
those divisions (Apuk, Kuac and Awan are the others). Aguok then divides up
further… into (I think) 12 subsections.
You might have seen this represented in an abstract diagram in an
anthropology textbook somewhere, but its quite simple really. People also
belong to a clan (dhieth), which is a non-territorially defined patrilineal
descent group. The clan I have been adopted in to, ‘Pagong’ is found across all
Dinka areas. Clan is an exogamous group, so you can’t marry someone in your
clan, but you can marry someone in your territorial section. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Anyway, this was a large meeting organized
by elected community leaders and Aguok people employed in the government
(mainly based in Juba). All chiefs and subchiefs, religious leaders, youth representatives,
diaspora etc were invited. It was pretty star studded, Chief Justice Chan Reec
Madut attended, so did the former Warrap Governor (and now presidential
advisor) H.E Tor Deng Mawein. I also met a woman who had come from the US to
attend the meeting and see her family. It was the first time she had been back
to Gogrial since leaving as a child. She was going to proceed to Khartoum to
see her parents for the first time in 14 years. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The broad aim was to bring Aguok people
together and decide what they can do to develop the community (there is a pot of cash behind this too – the
Constituency Development Fund from the central government which needs to be
allocated, so its not just chit-chat). It is also an opportunity to discuss
other issues too – like relationships between Aguok and their neighbors, which
can be strained. Critically, it was also a pretty good party and a general
celebration of being Aguok.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Four days of discussion pushed my
comprehension of the Dinka language to its limit and I can’t pretend to have
gotten all the details. But now at least I know enough to know when people are
talking about something I want to know about, and I am armed with a voice
recorder so I will be getting a lot of it translated. I find language one of
the hardest parts of research, any anthropologist that claims to be able to
understand everything from a fast and complicated discussion in a language as
difficult as Dinka after 8 months is either lying or fooling themselves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Alongside the discussions there was plenty
of good entertainment. Including Dinka pop stars John Kudusay and Akut Kuei. I
have gotten really into their music from being here – which is lucky because
its played all the time. Look them up on YouTube. More ‘traditional’ music and
dancing also got everyone up from their seats regularly. Here are some photos.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48r1AFAIkHx0-7U2LQ-mhYJt-ZMuaqtDAVrxsNHJzxaKCvXQc1WjLrGp237HSK7TBI-cjOCsef9zsqGQZlUnJKT6l77N6hnGH4RO44Wojivg2qxci7eGgDzAsxGIf3QCFVPQQIO_6_nyu/s1600/DSC01724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48r1AFAIkHx0-7U2LQ-mhYJt-ZMuaqtDAVrxsNHJzxaKCvXQc1WjLrGp237HSK7TBI-cjOCsef9zsqGQZlUnJKT6l77N6hnGH4RO44Wojivg2qxci7eGgDzAsxGIf3QCFVPQQIO_6_nyu/s320/DSC01724.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">attendees</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgff7KTcizehmAHnpndigOxwaT6zjvqt7hTHthiOlRfP_qjJ-r5NRKSR2Vj0FkQSuuhktDWXnSD5hmefwIAPT7AM12efdeSYGOBPlzy6kVJAmd15EjaNgwGtjzU7SsnouHHPi_FNOMQwF6h/s1600/DSC01775.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgff7KTcizehmAHnpndigOxwaT6zjvqt7hTHthiOlRfP_qjJ-r5NRKSR2Vj0FkQSuuhktDWXnSD5hmefwIAPT7AM12efdeSYGOBPlzy6kVJAmd15EjaNgwGtjzU7SsnouHHPi_FNOMQwF6h/s320/DSC01775.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">children dancing with image of Salva Kiir</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John Kudusay</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8rBQ2n_63AwPfZAIDDnCDuzlQYIlwGzqVGtnyMU5wBUAB_OoISP3K50JZXAUwA5Seq0gTYf7XX79PWzx2xWRkJuSEEDMmCBK84jtqqnlPbRkG1HNiOejkaj4YOBw5vl1r1e5wnJ7dLtIo/s1600/DSC01830.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8rBQ2n_63AwPfZAIDDnCDuzlQYIlwGzqVGtnyMU5wBUAB_OoISP3K50JZXAUwA5Seq0gTYf7XX79PWzx2xWRkJuSEEDMmCBK84jtqqnlPbRkG1HNiOejkaj4YOBw5vl1r1e5wnJ7dLtIo/s320/DSC01830.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">anthropologist</td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSoH2GQPB9_H-iFQI57IyYjRbCko5xZLxnMHCJ-WWoFf8jOWOeorDPnY5-d1cXaiMEhRa-n-9WN56KsCCM1_NFG9z0_dods79Ifh7AcoorEhwGR4IETDh9_LRAQiS2VbynDZuQgM9zXmsh/s1600/DSC01838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSoH2GQPB9_H-iFQI57IyYjRbCko5xZLxnMHCJ-WWoFf8jOWOeorDPnY5-d1cXaiMEhRa-n-9WN56KsCCM1_NFG9z0_dods79Ifh7AcoorEhwGR4IETDh9_LRAQiS2VbynDZuQgM9zXmsh/s320/DSC01838.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cooking on an industrial scale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
</div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-70689379681238664612012-02-04T12:33:00.000+00:002012-02-04T12:33:23.540+00:00The Road to Wau, part 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span lang="EN-US">Public transport to Wau again. I re-iterate
that I like public transport in South Sudan, I could fly, but I don’t enjoy it
as much. Having said that yesterday’s journey had some highlights that made me
wish I was safely strapped into a UN/WFP plane.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">We went to the bus stop in Rumbek early,
too early it turned out, no one was there. The two friends I was with did some
negotiation on my behalf to get me (1) in a good seat, (2) in a good car <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and (3) with a driver they trust (i.e. someone
they know). Unfortunately this was not the first car going and meant a 4 hour
wait for the car to fill up with passengers.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The other passengers were a woman who was
returning from accompanying her mother to Rumbek and 2 young men going to visit
family in Wau. We were short of passengers for what seemed like forever. Just
as I was beginning to give up hope that we would ever leave, our party was made
up by 2 armed policemen, one of whom had been shot in the arm in Rumbek North
they day before (its not in the news yet, but the clashed in Tonj East have
spread to Rumbek North). He was going home to Wau where his family would take
care of him. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The injured policeman was drinking local
alcohol. Under the circumstances (having been shot with apparently given no
more medical treatment than a bandage) this seemed understandable, and perhaps
the most reasonable thing to be doing. However, sitting in a car with drunk
armed men is never a good feeling. And it did mean an extended stop at every
police checkpoint while they explained to their colleagues what had happened<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Then somewhere between Cuiebet and Tonj
something underneath the car fell off. (Things going wrong with cars on these
dirt roads is quite common). The drivers had whatever kit they needed to patch up
the problem (i.e. tie whatever had fallen off back on) and we continued to
Tonj.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">In Tonj we stopped for an inordinately long
period of time for food and sisha. The bus stops in Tonj at a little eatery
where street boys and others come and try and get a few pounds of travellers
and eat their left over lunch. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We listened to music and everyone sang
along, there was a particularly energetic performance to Beyonce’s ‘I Need a
Soldier”. Sugar cane was passed round and lots of chatting<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">A few hours later we reached Wau…dropped
the policeman with a bullet wound with some relatives and then I was dropped at
my ‘home’ for the next few days. The driver and his friend asked if they could
meet me later. I gave them a polite but emphatic, ‘no’ and went to wash the
dust off myself. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-15894719771724941172011-11-06T12:54:00.000+00:002011-11-06T13:26:06.974+00:00Missionary Moorings<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I am now coming to you
from Kuajok, Warrap State. Apologies for the long absence in blogging, which
has been due in a large part to irregular access to power. Since my beloved
MacBook battery is on its last legs, writing updates without power has been
very difficult. Now I see why blogging is a luxury of the urban middle class. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Kuajok is the capital
of Warrap State. The first two things that anyone will tell you when you arrive
in Kuajok is that (1) it is a very new town and (2) it has been very well
surveyed. The latter is certainly true. The roads are so straight it would break
the Romans’ hearts to see them. The first thing is technically true – as a
‘town’ Kuajok is new, but it was a mission, schools and was a large village since
1923. President Kiir himself went to secondary school in Kuajok and when he
came on an official visit last week, leaned up to the window of his car and
shot a special “thumbs up” to the group of secondary school students lined up
in their uniform to greet him (much to their delight). <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In my first few weeks
here I have been told a lot about the arrival of the missionaries and
establishing Kuajok as a centre. On Wednesday evening I was taken on a walk to
the river port where the missionaries landed (Wanh Abun). At this time of year
the river is about an hours walk away, over toic (flood plain), its still quite
wet and walking is the only way to get there. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On the way we met
several groups of people heading back to their home villages across the river
after having sold milk, maize in Kuajok market or having just been visiting. My
Dinka language – although still very limited – is now at the stage where I can
have a small conversation, introduce and explain myself to people.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
These two young men
were walking to a cattle camp about 4 hours away, but they explained that they
were strong and they would run so it would only take them 2. Young men
frequently like to point out to me how strong they are and tell me how weak I
am (as a foreign girl). <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5uD8bRByxAYyWiH5ou9tBlstHsoRogxY5o2UlgL6fAizH6103IO-TYD4o9-2OKL_GyqU5FGfU5Dndk71PxnIHkP7QRjTz_7GZGj-a9OPap_woc-kLlgVxWCwX_lPaIgksz0x4j9sge3Wo/s1600/SANY0191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5uD8bRByxAYyWiH5ou9tBlstHsoRogxY5o2UlgL6fAizH6103IO-TYD4o9-2OKL_GyqU5FGfU5Dndk71PxnIHkP7QRjTz_7GZGj-a9OPap_woc-kLlgVxWCwX_lPaIgksz0x4j9sge3Wo/s320/SANY0191.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span id="goog_1144539921"></span><span id="goog_1144539922"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When we got to the
river they swam across it (instead of taking the small boat) after telling me I
would never be able to make it, despite my protestations that I do know how to
swim! <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
At the river bank, to the left of the boats currently used my commuters is ‘Wanh Abun.’ Essentially a bank, the only thing that marks it out is the 6 or 7 metal posts that were once used to moor the missionaries boats. One of them has been pulled out of the ground and you can see the cast mark of a London company “Siemens”. There is also the remains of a brick structure which an old lady told me was the house of an missionary. To me it looked too small and too close to the river to be a house, more likely a store room connected with the mooring of the boats or a place to rest and unload </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifhmZ5zafHgIq5WXHVIMQhCY5Bg4nPlQG1CLlb5KlYxQkw-RNcRGPCHf_lU4QcenN1WlBMEgvuKP0wojXvmPvxW-w6owhPRbQ8jfHS4mi6-943PbGD-7xQDkqMLoLXgRfihbn5Of1TPq5W/s1600/SANY0206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifhmZ5zafHgIq5WXHVIMQhCY5Bg4nPlQG1CLlb5KlYxQkw-RNcRGPCHf_lU4QcenN1WlBMEgvuKP0wojXvmPvxW-w6owhPRbQ8jfHS4mi6-943PbGD-7xQDkqMLoLXgRfihbn5Of1TPq5W/s320/SANY0206.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The remains of the "missionary's house"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg58doGmNXprbXmV1i0wQzxcr3ye60rUewXxl0NwbWkxoYLHH4KIfaslVXaRbPpNwxSZSqm2kk3yh8ysNBpsqGdJ1YsBJM53Nl2e4T44GN_-8YWlY7alGosSF7FoU3d5UpL14BupoumktJp/s1600/SANY0202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg58doGmNXprbXmV1i0wQzxcr3ye60rUewXxl0NwbWkxoYLHH4KIfaslVXaRbPpNwxSZSqm2kk3yh8ysNBpsqGdJ1YsBJM53Nl2e4T44GN_-8YWlY7alGosSF7FoU3d5UpL14BupoumktJp/s320/SANY0202.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">detail of the uprooted mooring post</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
</div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-38901411584705115082011-10-11T11:29:00.000+01:002011-10-11T11:29:42.697+01:00The road to Wau<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I like travelling by road. You see more,
you stop in interesting places and you meet and talk to fellow travelers
(because you are bumping along with them in an intimate fashion for hours and
hours). Road travel gives me more of an illusion of safety, because I am not thousands of miles above the air in a metal shell. Although I realise it is the least safe way to travel.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I have found road travel and the condition
of roads is also a hot topic of conversation in South Sudanese towns. This is
partly because people in towns use roads frequently to visit family in rural
areas. And because the condition of these roads (security and general
maintenance) has very real effects on daily life. South Sudan is a major
importer of food and commodities rather than a producer, so if the main roads
are bad, supplies drop and prices rise noticeably. The road connecting Rumbek
to Juba (via Yirol) is a prime example. This road goes through very low land
and is in a bad condition. This means that in the wet season fuel and food
doesn’t reach Rumbek (and Wau and other places) as well as it should.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I recently took the road from Rumbek (in Lakes State) to
Wau (In Western Bahr el Ghazal State).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This road is actually good, for the most part. The journey took 6 hours.
From Rumbek to Mapel the road in is good condition. Mapel, an important SPLA
barracks is over half way and you reach it in 3 hours. The last 3 hours,
although a shorter distance, to longer to cover on account of mud and potholes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The major landmarks on the way are Cuiebet
– a small town about an hour from Rumbek. The road then goes through a big wet season
grazing area, on the border between Lakes and Warrap. Here there are currently
thousands of cattle visible from the road, being taken through pasture
submerged in water. Cattle and people up to their knees in flood. Cattle
keepers were walking the herds on the road to avoid the flood, much to the
irritation of everyone else in the car.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Leaving Lakes State you soon reach Tonj and stop
for lunch and pass through vehicle checkpoints.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We made a further stop at the turning for
Mapel to unload food (for the army? I wasn’t sure)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Then uninterrupted driving till we reach
the outskirts of Wau and passed through another checkpoint to check foreigners
ID. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Arrived in Wau at about 3pm</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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</div>
Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-76947505789435689532011-10-09T17:13:00.002+01:002011-10-10T10:38:27.857+01:00Picture post - wet season cattle camp<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A few weeks before leaving Rumbek I went with a friend to visit some of his family and cattle just outside Cueibet.<br />
<br />
We walked from the village, its normally about half an hour. But it had rained the night before and the path was completely underwater so it took us just over an hour (also may have had something to do with my pace being slighting on the slower than average).<br />
<br />
Still it wasn't a long walk, other than vegetation, the only thing we passed on the way were some old homesteads - places where people had lived during the war when it was unsafe to be in Cuiebet and near the road. There are just wooden supports of vanished tukuls remaining now. People have moved back, or on somewhere else<br />
<br />
People and cattle had arrived at the cattle camp only a few days before, so everything was still really green and lush. It was beautiful<br />
<br />
I'm now in Wau, about to move on to Kuajok. But first I wanted to take advantage of a good internet connection and power to put a few photos.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwMOpoz6QSMrgwcLtcMqCkkx-SygCq7cHhyphenhyphen1y7l8yrjY3nytkTCvupxoRenMTNQU2xk7PdlT153KPEJCZHpH2DPzS-EvUhJNHPsVfr_CbreYMkG169QFprnVFVcZDuLgmdArWdcJmNwZVV/s1600/IMG_9752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwMOpoz6QSMrgwcLtcMqCkkx-SygCq7cHhyphenhyphen1y7l8yrjY3nytkTCvupxoRenMTNQU2xk7PdlT153KPEJCZHpH2DPzS-EvUhJNHPsVfr_CbreYMkG169QFprnVFVcZDuLgmdArWdcJmNwZVV/s320/IMG_9752.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-53067057779142191132011-09-07T12:07:00.002+01:002011-09-14T15:08:34.065+01:00A Working Guide to Graves in Lakes State.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">This is a bit out there. I am have a blossoming interesting in graves in and around Rumbek and I want to indulge it. This could just be morbid curiosity but think this came from a wider interest in the architecture and built environment of Rumbek. Grave stones, being solid stone, survive better than a lot of other things.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The graves of big men come in all shapes and sizes. Go to Maper in Rumbek North County and you can see the grave of Wol Athiang, a famous chief of the Pakkam subsection of Agar Dinka. There is no grave stone, it is a tree with</span><span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US">posts where cattle had been tethered before being sacrificed. (See a <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg1CnpAwisIIKJiErco-BsDw8MOTXfkwyog61ZdQdhCZJgGAcW2CYgA3qgLjvV70HFefXzwk7HutlvC5xp61h-yeD3HYjZrPiFWmfTXrCuK6pGbMUPG5k5_UNekA9efQZo1J9XQwVsVtMR/s1600/wol%2527s+burial+tree+and+byre.JPG">photo</a>). For something more flash, on Freedom Square in Rumbek, there is the grave of Gordon Muortat a prominent southern politician. This is a modern construction, large, painted white and with no cattle posts. Really impressive is the grave of Arol Kucuol in Cueibet, a Gok Dinka town in the west of Lakes State. He was an important chief from the time of the British up to his death in the 1980s. His enormous stone grave is literally surrounded by sacrificial posts and is still an important focal point for public and political events in Cuiebet.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br />
</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPkLZ9V286U0ry7tuRwAFyMo2DACR4YioayULrrMW3yx5jhReRjWp-jiNoO3Yubxf4QTuLnVzDN8enH_NhlbFMwAUPzcC6fJRPBAfkVE4ceHUU33I6D27_hZr3cyxpW9kcXHMc3NICj_GI/s1600/DSC00781.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPkLZ9V286U0ry7tuRwAFyMo2DACR4YioayULrrMW3yx5jhReRjWp-jiNoO3Yubxf4QTuLnVzDN8enH_NhlbFMwAUPzcC6fJRPBAfkVE4ceHUU33I6D27_hZr3cyxpW9kcXHMc3NICj_GI/s320/DSC00781.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Grave of Arol Kucuol, Cueibet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">But walking round Rumbek (and other smaller towns, like Pacong in Rumbek East County) you will find other graves. Some of them are for important local people, not paramount chiefs, but important enough to have a big grave stone. These are within family compounds, but since most compound are open (do not have walls) its easy enough to see them.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">There are other graves, which seem almost entirely forgotten about. In Rumbek, for example, there are two on the road from the main market to the cattle auction, half sunk into the ground, they are walked over daily by thousands of uninterested feet. another I have seen one partially incorporated into the wall of a house, or on a small path through the old centre of town. For the large past the graves seem to be unmarked, or the marks have been eroded. Who is buried under them? </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Actual ‘graveyards’ are not common in Rumbek. I don’t know if there is one that is currently functioning. I don’t know where people are usually buried. A few weeks ago, I discovered an old, overgrown graveyard on the road to Wau, a little bit out of town. One of the graves nearest the road has an inscription that survives, the name is ‘Thamthom Pirepi”, he was born in 1955 and died at the age of 24. After a few enquiries I discovered that this is the area where an old greek family has ‘ancestral’ land – I now suspect it is an old Greek cemetery (there is a history of Greek traders in South Sudan).</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US">That’s it for now…I'm still on the lookout for more graves</span></div>
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Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-46055747481436890062011-09-01T10:11:00.001+01:002011-09-05T09:54:38.384+01:00After Independence<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">It’s been almost two months since Independence day and The Government of the new Republic of South Sudan have made some very tangible changes in that time. What is life like (so far...) in the newly independent country?</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">One of the most noticeable changes has been the introduction of a completely new currency: the South Sudan Pound has replaced the old Sudan Pound. I got my first South Sudan 5 pound note on the 20<sup>th </sup>July, a few days after it was introduced. We were initially going to be given 3 months to exchange all the old currency for new (at a rate of 1:1), then it was two months, and last week it was announced we had 1 day to change everything. Then on the 27<sup>th</sup> August, Lakes State was declared free of the old currency<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I was the first person in my family (with whom I am staying) to receive the new money. When I brought it home it was closely inspected and handled by everything. It was then washed in water as a test of its strength! Which was declared by all to be good. The transition has been remarkably quick and I haven’t heard any complaints – certainly seems much more successful than the last time a new currency was introduced and all the old money was taken from traders and ordinary citizens and burnt on Freedom Square!<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The second major change has been a Presidential decree announcing a new set of ministries, ministers and assistant ministers. The espoused idea is to improve political representation in South Sudan by having a more ethnically/regionally balanced cabinet (there are various analyses of how successful/true to that goal the ministerial appointments are on sites like SouthSudanNation.com). The Government in Juba is also being ‘slimmed down’ and more decentralisation is happening. That means that the State Government of Lakes based in Rumbek is getting bigger and new ministries and positions are being created.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">We also have a new dialling code, +211 The networks have not been functioning well in the last few weeks prompting rumours (mostly unfounded) that Khartoum has cut various network connections to the South.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">However, for most people, the most pressing issue in the last few months has been the soaring prices of food and commodities in the market. Some, but not all, of the reasons for this are connected to Independence. South Sudan imports almost all of its food and commodities. Since before independence the border with the North has been closed and trucks have not been coming. The other traders, importing from Kenya and Uganda are facing exorbitant taxes (official and unofficial) on the road as well as inflated exchange rates of South Sudanese Currency and dollars/East African currency at the border. The cost of this is falling on the consumer and prices are sky rocketing – with good doubling and in some cased quadrupling in price over the past few weeks<o:p></o:p></div></div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-10079553128561844902011-07-20T11:32:00.000+01:002011-07-20T11:32:02.415+01:00Dancing in Freedom Square<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The last few weeks in Rumbek have been up and down. The Independence celebrations lasted for about a week, schools and many offices where closed and there were events every evening on Freedom Square (dances, athletics and football competitions). <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">On Saturday morning, the Bishop of Rumbek, Ceaser Mazzolari died while giving mass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He has been in Rumbek since 1990 and was a big and popular figure. He opened the proceedings on Independence day and was very active in local events generally.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His passing has meant the schools are closed again while preparations for his burial and service are made. My Dinka language course has also been cancelled until next week.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">In the mean time have been getting on with some of the more ‘fun’ aspects of my research. One of the things I have been interested in the archival records is the regulation of dances in the colonial period. There are quite a lot of references to the problems of dances as violent events that often got out of control and had to be more strictly managed by the chiefs and government authorities. I have written a short piece about it in this month’s issue of the UK Sudan Studies Journal. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I wanted to attend some dances here, and there have been many happening. The young men in the family I am staying with go every evening and they have been taking me along to see and meet people.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">What happens is…groups of young men, wearing boxers, bits of tinsel (left over from the Independence celebrations) and smothered in dust parade into the centre of town. This is meant to give the appearance of people who live in the cattle camp (and it does, pretty well, do this). These groups of men, shouting, sweating a high on testosterone, produce an experience that is not dissimilar to watching a lad’s Friday night out in Newcastle. When they get to Freedom square they start a dance, mostly they are doing one that involves jumping round backwards in a circle, singing and shouting bull names, girls join in too. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After a bit of asking around I discovered that these dances are organised by local students, and they are supposed to be a celebration of Dinka ‘culture’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s a kind of self-mimicry or self-representation. Many of the participants feel quite distant from the ‘cattle culture’ in town, but they find ways to display and venerate it. Even though most people I spoke to thought the technical abilities of the dancers left something to be desired…and they were apparently (though not to me) very obviously <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">not </i>the cattle keepers they were acting as. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A fascinating kind of cultural heritage production.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br />
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</span></div><!--EndFragment-->Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-78881637074002689402011-07-11T12:50:00.002+01:002011-07-13T11:03:31.763+01:00New Nation<div class="MsoNormal">While the world’s media attention has been on the celebrations in Juba, in Rumbek have also been bringing the new nation in in style, so I want to give a bit of run down of what has been going on<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Celebrations here started on Friday night…at midnight there was a candlelit vigil on Freedom Square (the main square in town). At the house I am staying in, just before midnight the party atmosphere began properly, music went on and everyone started dancing and waving South Sudan flags in the air (amidst the sound of ululating and guns being fired into the air, apparently in celebration, all over town). We danced till dawn, because frankly, if you are not going to dance all night when your country becomes Independent, when are you?<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">After maybe an hours sleep, all the primary school children got up to join their schools marches, and the rest of us got ourselves dressed to head down to Freedom Square for about 9am<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I arrived with one of the young men in the house and Freedom square was packed full of people. Students from Rumbek’s different school marched into the square. They packed it completely full of people, if you know Rumbek then you will know that Freedom Square is very big (really more of a field than a square). There were also marches from the army, the police, the churches and cattle keepers leading decorated bulls into the square<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">At about 1pm the flag raising began. For me, by this point the day had turned into half celebration, half heat endurance test. We had managed to fight our way to near the front and were jammed in with other revellers. It was a very hot day on Saturday and everyone was desperate to see the flag of Sudan come down and the flag of South Sudan go up. When it was finally raised, there was a perfect moment when the wind caught the flag and it displayed perfectly. Huge cries from the crowd. It was an amazing moment. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Celebrations are still continuing. On Saturday and Sunday evening there was dancing and wrestling on freedom square. Cattle keepers also brought there song bulls into town and led them around Freedom Square singing songs and showing them off. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I want to share some pictures from the day. I conducted a small research experiment with these photos. I gave my two cameras to two young men in my house, aged 18 and 24 (nephews of my host) and asked them to capture images of the day. Both men were born and brought up in the war and I wanted to see how they would choose to photograph the Independence celebrations. So, all of these photos were taken by them. Some of them are nicely composed, see for yourself. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_BXTuyi5e_AMOhLzuvAxJb3vTeHcxCzRQPsLyk9Bh-nHbrpOsnlM4QpU01xgZ4mQ0IdT486MeV5zfILWVHbdkouRXa6BeTNSy2Tq2sjOgqmfDRNtpYNxiu0N4LDQMYnri9cJZ4J9CJh7t/s1600/DSC00653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_BXTuyi5e_AMOhLzuvAxJb3vTeHcxCzRQPsLyk9Bh-nHbrpOsnlM4QpU01xgZ4mQ0IdT486MeV5zfILWVHbdkouRXa6BeTNSy2Tq2sjOgqmfDRNtpYNxiu0N4LDQMYnri9cJZ4J9CJh7t/s320/DSC00653.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipuctTp6nty6on0RQw-I1xSQ0ChRb84ttEMhUGJavZw94RMC7g19qwoKLJutelaz8ofTE7uZuCnPAMSyH4Gk9XsRotryskw213ojvaO5toTkbKVG3rmHPxv4ITH9BKpv5jClrcc8sjWdGs/s1600/DSC00640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipuctTp6nty6on0RQw-I1xSQ0ChRb84ttEMhUGJavZw94RMC7g19qwoKLJutelaz8ofTE7uZuCnPAMSyH4Gk9XsRotryskw213ojvaO5toTkbKVG3rmHPxv4ITH9BKpv5jClrcc8sjWdGs/s320/DSC00640.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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</div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-89781849762063450612011-07-07T10:59:00.001+01:002011-07-07T10:59:25.709+01:00Independence minus 2 days<!--StartFragment--> <br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">Independence day celebrations are upon us in Rumbek.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">The national anthem of South Sudan is everywhere, on the radio when I wake up in the morning, on the breath of uniformed children on their way to school and set as the every other person’s ringtone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I haven’t learnt the words yet, but the boys in the family I am staying with have been studying them dutifully for the last week so I think that base is covered. In the afternoon you cannot move in town for all the groups of school children. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">In Rumbek, preparations for the celebrations on Saturday are in full swing. A bandstand it frantically being constructed on Freedom Square, the roof went on yesterday, it still needs to be finished and painted but it will probably be done just in the nick of time. The trees lining the streets are being painted white at the bottom. School children and church groups are practicing their marching. I even saw a large troop of Dinka scouts marching this morning.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">The<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>celebrations will start tomorrow, where Church groups will lead a candlelit vigil on Freedom square. On Saturday the flag will be raised, there will be speeches, dances and sports competitions. Bulls will be sacrificed and it will be a big party. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">There is currently insecurity around Rumbek with cattle raids between Gok from Rumbek West/Cuiebet and people from Rumbek central. A Beny Bith (spiritual leader) from Warrap wrote to the Govenor of Lakes State to say which colour bulls should be sacrificed in order to ensure peace in the new country – these were Marial and Mabor. I am waiting to see if this advice will be taken or ignored. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">About to give up on the prospects of getting any work done till next week…more (and photos) soon</span></div><!--EndFragment-->Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-76145466392234294282011-07-06T08:51:00.000+01:002011-07-06T08:51:55.827+01:00Update: RumbekI have been in Rumbek for one week now, I will be here for the next three months, returning next year and hopefully in South Sudan for 1 year in total.<br />
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A proper entry coming soon, but time is short and only 3 more days to learn the South Sudan national anthemZoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-33560701594405620682011-05-29T23:31:00.001+01:002011-05-29T23:35:58.337+01:00Who was this for?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">Durham University has an amazing collection of resources on Sudan, probably the best in the world. The library has virtually every book published, there is the Sudan Archive and the Middle East Documentation Centre has a huge quantity of recent grey literature and government documents. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">On a search for Dinka language material in the catalogue (of which there is quite a lot) I discovered a curious pamphlet from the Sudan Political Service…</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">It is called “Two Hundred Vital words” and it is crib of basic vocab in 11 Southern Sudanese languages; Acholi, Bari, Dinka (Bor and Rek), Kresh, Lotuko, Madi, Moro, Nuer, Shilluk and Zande. It also has a key of the English words and a curious list of English words in phonetics (I’ll come back to this). </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">I first presumed it was issued to Sudan Political Service (SPS) officers and administrators – to help them with the local languages. But, after a bit more inspection, I was not so sure.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">Some basic facts first, these words were selected by N.B Hunter. He was in the education department of the SPS, serving in El Fasher (Darfur) and the Nuba Mountains before he took up is last position as Resident Inspector of Southern Education in Wau and Lalyo. His wife, Ysabel’s diaries and photos from their time in Sudan are in the <a href="http://reed.dur.ac.uk/xtf/view?docId=ead/sad/huntery.xml">Durham Archive</a> The pamphlet was presented by a relative of JGS Macphail, who had a long career in the SPS, including serving as the District Commissioner of Upper Nile between 1933 and 1939. (He has also left his papers to the <a href="http://reed.dur.ac.uk/xtf/view?docId=ead/sad/macphalj.xml;query=Macphail#1">Sudan Archive</a> in Durham).</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">The pamphlet itself was published in 1931. This struck me as being rather early, only 2 years after the last patrol against Ariandit, the time when ‘pacification’ in Dinka areas is nominally counted as having given way to regular civil administration. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">The pamphlet is fun and quite useful if you are interested in languages in Southern Sudan. Hunter has attempted to give the same 200 words in each language. Here is a snippet of the Nuer page</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt3YeezIfEI3jATp2v3s4g5OjndPbp33LC4da946B9RS_pQOGkn3XLJFSHm62mQfKhaSKy2x9OYQayn5dW5NR_Hny1hE4tknuCvPd31V0KcY4o2M-DcyoogABmc5pA5e-k8k7y7vYWaaNI/s1600/IMG_8989.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt3YeezIfEI3jATp2v3s4g5OjndPbp33LC4da946B9RS_pQOGkn3XLJFSHm62mQfKhaSKy2x9OYQayn5dW5NR_Hny1hE4tknuCvPd31V0KcY4o2M-DcyoogABmc5pA5e-k8k7y7vYWaaNI/s320/IMG_8989.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">It is very interesting which words he was/was not able to find in the 11 languages. For example, word no. 30 was ‘rainmaker’, in Kresh and Shilluk, he found no word for rainmaker. In Dinka Bor he listed the word for rainmaker as “Tiet” but in Dinka Rek it is listed as “Beny Bith” (with a question mark). My understanding is the “Tiet” in Dinka Rek and Agar means a kind of technical specialist, quite different from Beny Bith, I am not sure what the meaning is in Dinka Bor. In any case, a better translation of Beny Bith is ‘master/chief of the fishing spear’ (Beny = master/chief, Bith = fishing spear). In Nuer, he is also uncertain of the word and offers a tentative “Kw</span><span lang="EN-US">äär” for rainmaker. There appears to have been no word for ‘banana’ in Dinka Rek, Madi, Moro, Nuer, Lotuko or Acholi (although this could have been due to a disinterest in bananas on Mr Hunters side).<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">The really curious thing about the pamphlet is a list of English words at the back which are spelt out phonetically. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj37ooSMZZ0IVQ0TktkAGg8YrLr85Y5fiYGm_rjhZfWNqBXViJWTx7StEZYadWVDI-1wNlzYZ5WvDwlMwiVSaWBOo3gYRvj1JAXsSHqbRsWN5nrPHmC2LjeEqmfjyZf4Emz5TIc7VnFefm5/s1600/IMG_8987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj37ooSMZZ0IVQ0TktkAGg8YrLr85Y5fiYGm_rjhZfWNqBXViJWTx7StEZYadWVDI-1wNlzYZ5WvDwlMwiVSaWBOo3gYRvj1JAXsSHqbRsWN5nrPHmC2LjeEqmfjyZf4Emz5TIc7VnFefm5/s320/IMG_8987.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><br />
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</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">To me, this implies that the pamphlet could have been intended for someone who did not speak English, because why else would you need to be told how to pronounce English words? However, whoever this was intended for would need to be literate in order to read the words and understand their meaning. You would think that someone in Southern Sudan at this time (1931) who could <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">read</i> English, would also be able to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">speak</i> English…it is a bit of a mystery. Was it meant for a clerk? An administrative assistant? A Northerner or a Southerner? <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">It came to Durham via a District Commissioner, but we can’t know why he had it or if he ever used it. Perhaps this was just the education department having a bit of fun, but I’d like to know more, if anyone has ever come across anything like this, I’d love to know about it!</span></div></div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-55796974273163996332011-05-24T20:30:00.005+01:002011-05-25T23:46:46.781+01:00Is All Press Good Press?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">The elections, referendum and imminent independence of South Sudan have brought a lot of media coverage to the region. Many journalists and photographers, to their credit, have been committed to getting out of Juba and reporting the experiences of Southern Sudan’s predominantly rural population at this historic time. A lot of this has involved going to cattle-camps and taking pictures. I am planning to write a section of my PhD on representations of “The Dinka” in the media, art, anthropology and the ways that Dinka people represent themselves, self-mytholgize and how all these link up and speak to each other. So this slew of interest has been of obvious interest to me too.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">There have been countless interesting article, like these interviews by Martin Plaut in <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-12538051">Aweil. </a>And numerous sets of photos like <a href="http://frederic-courbet.photoshelter.com/gallery/Dinka-Cattle-camp-Southern-Sudan/G0000Y4eOndThFBI">these</a>. Ok, I’d like a bit more context to a lot of these photographs but that is why I am doing a PhD (!)</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">But is all press good press? A recent weekend feature in Time Magazine called <a href="http://lightbox.time.com/2011/05/17/the-violent-cattle-keepers-of-southern-sudans-pastoralist-tribes/#1">‘The Violent Cattle Keepers of Southern Sudan’s Pastoralist Tribes”</a> captures what a lot of other people have been saying. I found it pretty uncomfortable reading. The photos, all taken at night depict men brandishing AK-47s. The prose describes cattle keeping as ‘a way of life that seems quite unchanged since its inception on these plains thousands of years ago”, people live literally in ‘a void’ beyond the reach of government where it is kill or be killed and the gun is the only authority. Is this really how we are going to think about rural people?</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">Of course, you could not deny that after 50 years of on and off war people are armed and want to protect their cattle. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Of course</i> cattle raiding does happen and it can have tragic consequences. But articles like this belie complexity and pathologize what cattle keeping, as a way of life, is about. This is unhelpful at best. Marriage and the need to collect bridewealth is often put at the centre of these problems. The argument is that young men need cattle to marry so they raid them – but it’s not quite that simple. For one, bridewealth doesn’t have to be handed over all at one go…or sometimes, even at all. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">There is a real need to balance the image of rural people as ‘violent cattle keepers’. Other angles are more revealing and make great articles too. Take <a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/07/30/AR2005073001428.html">this piece by Emily Wa</a>x. She interviewed young men and women who live in cattle camps near Rumbek about their lives and their hopes for the future. They discuss the complex choices they are making about education, the benefits and drawbacks of life in town and the future of cattle-camps. What I like about Emily’s piece is that it shows cattle camps are not isolated and that people living in them also have very ‘normal’ lives and mundane concerns. Its not all about violence.</span></div></div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5857767251499722987.post-24068372398333974992011-03-31T14:43:00.005+01:002011-04-01T09:23:04.085+01:00Exploring African art in Washington DC<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">I recently returned from a trip to Washington DC to visit family. My time there was a welcome break from Durham and the archive, but not a rest per se. I have never been to DC and I was happy to find it is a great museum city: the National Mall is a museum lovers dream with seven (yes, that right <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">seven</i>) Smithsonians, the National Museum of Arts and more. This is not to mention the generous scattering of memorials, including one of the most interesting sites of memorial there is going - the two Vietnam veterans memorials. One of them, <a href="http://thewall-usa.com/">the wall</a>, designed by a college student has been wildly successful in producing a site of national mourning and identity, the other, a statue of three soldiers, denigrated as a failure and eyesore. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">As soon as you get interested in museology, all museums become intrinsically interesting, even if you don’t like or agree with them. Museums ended up punctuating my whole time in the States, even the day I spent catching up with a friend in NYC I could not resist the magnetic pull of the Met drawing me in.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">There was plenty to interest a student of Africa, especially one with an interest in the politics of display. Some of the African collections in Washington (and NYC) are truly amazing, but not unproblematic. I saw here a lot of the problems and successes of exhibiting Africa that I have also seen in Europe.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">The first exhibit on Africa I went to was in the <a href="http://www.mnh.si.edu/">Smithsonian Museum of Natural History</a>. This location was the main problem I had with this exhibition. What is an exhibition about African history doing in a The Museum of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Natural</i> History? Surely it should be in a museum of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">human </i>history if anywhere? You should not have to walk through a gallery about the ice-age into a display on post-apartheid South Africa: that just has to be the wrong message. A sign at the beginning of the exhibition announced that purpose was to display the history of African cultures from the evolution of humanity to the present day. In reality, there was very little on human evolution and it mostly concentrated on Africa’s colonial and post-colonial period. In their defense, the curators had gone to a lot of effort to stress the diversity and modernity of various African societies. However, I think whatever was done with the content of the exhibit, you could not get away from a creeping feeling of intense discomfort with the way that African cultures were being put in the context of natural history. The Ancient Greek and Roman collections used to be housed in the Natural History Museum but they have been moved, I am told. Africa remains with the beasts and rocks. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMOL2bBGG6LAQku27FpvAIQOTtbXOR-BW3uOTGZl1i8aOd1EcTSrBJsoW6HTmL03GOykxTSDlJ0edkRonw08MEDWkjeF8mBS7KsGTVvNYDhwXvVs9yazK7wizuZDlKUejYP5X-7XpGetM_/s1600/DSC00392.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMOL2bBGG6LAQku27FpvAIQOTtbXOR-BW3uOTGZl1i8aOd1EcTSrBJsoW6HTmL03GOykxTSDlJ0edkRonw08MEDWkjeF8mBS7KsGTVvNYDhwXvVs9yazK7wizuZDlKUejYP5X-7XpGetM_/s320/DSC00392.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">There were two massive cliches in this exhibit. The first was the decision to dim the lights. Exhibits on Africa are often dimly lit (this is the ‘Dark Continent’ after all) the Africa Galleries at the British Museum are also very dark. The second was the enormous number of proverbs printed above the cases, as if thinking in Africa only comes in mystical and poetic form?</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">Next we went to the <a href="http://africa.si.edu/">Smithsonian Museum on African Ar</a>t. My first impression was that they had fallen into another classic trap of displaying Africa - confusing art with artifact. In the main hall there was a door displayed in a glass cabinet. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSt7FlHjr4Slr6u2xn8BBy20Ong9Srv3QW33vd087yPr1aSClodB4tUTFSPZCrRulRSCVm1hfkLFlhJRC6BKxFIggv-1czfkWgeq5jGMrOIsYfaskgVKXQMS-QNcPzEazTUUI4Bhhq_GBD/s1600/DSC00397.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSt7FlHjr4Slr6u2xn8BBy20Ong9Srv3QW33vd087yPr1aSClodB4tUTFSPZCrRulRSCVm1hfkLFlhJRC6BKxFIggv-1czfkWgeq5jGMrOIsYfaskgVKXQMS-QNcPzEazTUUI4Bhhq_GBD/s320/DSC00397.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">Nice, but is this ‘art’ or is this a door?</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">As we went in, we found they had a really nice exhibit of some contemporary South African and Brazilian artists. And the museum is nice, although there are a lot of empty spaces, but they seem to put on a lot of interesting events. I can't resist drawing attention to some really bad labeling we spotted. For example the label below starts with the sentence “Images of women with or without children appear frequently in African art”, this is not something unique to African art, as the Guerilla Girls have brilliantly made the point that <a href="http://www.guerrillagirls.com/posters/getnakedupdate.shtml">83% of the nudes in the Met Museum are female</a>.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQqHUgNesoEkQkwVb2KaNS571x_HZsDPRwTwHsw01LcE5CoOKQc4wzWk_FAA7s15tY-aObWB2IhWPAAzwwgrxloPhiEpork1wOc1tHnUPwmfnUPQfKPjydTcyu5TEGUZdqO6ERzG2L8Wxr/s1600/DSC00399.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQqHUgNesoEkQkwVb2KaNS571x_HZsDPRwTwHsw01LcE5CoOKQc4wzWk_FAA7s15tY-aObWB2IhWPAAzwwgrxloPhiEpork1wOc1tHnUPwmfnUPQfKPjydTcyu5TEGUZdqO6ERzG2L8Wxr/s320/DSC00399.jpg" width="213" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US">Finally I went to the Met while in NYC. I thought they have done a really nice job of displaying the permanent Africa collections. My picture below makes it look a little dark but its not at all, some pieces you can walk all around and others are put together in cases. For me part of the success of the Met has to be down to how genuinely fantastic their collection is, particularly the Malian pieces, I fully recommend. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US"><br />
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</div></div>Zoe Cormackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16462854614586188420noreply@blogger.com0